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Spotlight
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Epiphany in Rethymnon |
 "Has anyone got a wet-suit?" |
 "Sea Scouts and fireworks. Need we say more?" |
As in many places on Crete, Rethymnon marks Epiphany with a ‘Blessing
the waters’ ceremony. It is of course hardly surprising in a place
where the sea has such a pivotal role that this ritual is one that is
deeply significant to Rethymniots.
On the morning of January 6th, locals start to assemble in the Venetian
Harbour. By about 11 am the harbour is full-Rethymnon being Rethymnon,
this means every bit of the of the harbour. People are perched on the
lighthouse, and there is a veritable flotilla of small fishing boats,
each one vying for pole position.
The start of the ceremony is signalled - on water - by the arrival of
the sea scouts who row into the harbour in traditional craft. On land,
the band starts playing.
The Bishop conducts a religious service and throws the cross into the
sea. Fireworks erupt, the brave young men and boys who have been
standing shivering at the water’s edge dive into the harbour and the
race is on….This year, in a modern, gender-fair twist, there was at
least one brave young girl who launched herself into the brink to try
and retrieve the cross.
Diving for the cross takes place three times, (of course!) after which
the swimmers are blessed. The service finishes, and then the mayor
performs his first real civic duty of the year (and with this new mayor
his first real civic duty ever?!) by giving a short address to the
people of Rethymnon. He wishes us all health and prosperity.
People start to drift away from the harbour, and then the coffee bars
start to fill up!
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Tourist-Free Zone |
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Much though we value the contribution that tourists make to the
local economy - and indeed, it could be said that the
www.rethymnon.biz team, advertising local businesses as we do,
are in the last position to be able to complain (note the
promised merciless plug) - it is a real joy being able to walk
through the Old Town in peace and quiet during the winter. This
is the time of year when one can truly appreciate the beauty of
the local architecture. |
A couple of hours walking through the backstreets in January,
and you’ll see the Rethymnon that most tourists never see.
Intricate carvings on doorways, Turkish inscriptions and secret
gardens are just some of the finds….
Rethymnon may be quiet, but it is far from being closed for the
duration. So, on a fine day, you can explore at leisure,
comfortable in the knowledge that there are plenty of sociable
pit-stops along the way.
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A little thank-you to the people of Rethymnon |
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With Epiphany we are presented with new beginnings, yet on the other
hand, Christmas festivities are brought to a close. I could, with a lot
more wine inside me, go on at some length in pompous academic vein about
the importance of ‘rites of passage’. However, given the somewhat
laissez-faire attitude to weapon possession on this island (“I’ll show
you my Kalashnikov if you show me yours”) this might not be the smartest
move on my part.
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Seriously, though, folks, we had the greatest time. For some of us,
Epiphany signalled the end of a month-long round of partying - kicking
off on December 9th with the now world famous Name Day Party for Anna.
Everyone here knows how people party on Crete. And Rethymnon really
gave us a party. But we are more than fortunate. Rethymniots have been
our hosts, our friends and for many, surrogate families, all year round.
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So, here at CMB we would like to say thanks to our friends in Rethymnon:
For making us feel welcome, for including us, and for going the extra
kilometre to try and help us out (even if we don’t speak the language
properly). We would also like to wish you all the very best for health,
love, peace and happiness in 2007.
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Pashmina Delafonte |
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