The South Coast Gig
Any way you look at it, this is a sure fire winner. Our experience says,
do this on Day 3. (Day 1, meeting at airport, mezedes in evening near
hotel/homestead, loads of Cretan wine / raki / ouzo etc. Day 2, wander
round old town, fish or whatever lunch in harbour—Cretan wine etc.
stroll round Fortezza, bit of a snooze and freshen up, then snacks and
drinks in your local in the evening). On Day 3, suggest some form of
breakfast if they haven’t already had some (spinach pies work well, in
our opinion), then hit the road no later than 11 a.m. and drive towards
Plakias. If early enough, wander round the Late Minoan Cemetery in
Armeni, which is just flaming weird (where was the settlement that went
with a necropolis of this size?). You can make a detour to Spili for
coffee/ really good fresh juice/ water from the lion’s head fountains.
Stop off in Kortaliotou Gorge for ‘ooh-ah’ photos, buy silly hats /
newspapers / snorkels in the Forum shop in Plakias, have a drink in the
last café on the strip and then drive up to Myrthios for a cracking good
meal and ’the view’ at Plateia (see separate ‘lunch therapy’ section).
Then drive through Myrthios and take a different route home via the
Sellia gorge, dodging herds of sheep on the way. You will probably
arrive back in Rethymnon early evening, and then could go the Sunset
Taverna to, um, er, watch the sunset, have a couple of ouzos and picky
bits (if still hungry) and contemplate the meaning of life. With or
without visitors, after over a quarter of a century, our editor (who
must have done this route well over a hundred times by now) never tires
of this particular excursion. Two Monasteries in One Day:
Arkadi and Preveli, via Gerakari
Could be combined with the South Coast Gig, but tough call. Will involve
some repetition of driving through Koutaliotou Gorge on way back home,
but you won’t be doing this on Day 4 anyway (more likely Day 5 or Day 6,
and Final Day will be souvenir shopping), as based on previous
experience, Day 4 may involve writing postcards, and shopping for the
‘difficult to find but essential thing that I can’t live without for a
week but somehow failed to pack in my suitcase’. .
Drive up to Arkadi, skirting the ‘wally trolley’ (thanks, Roger)
pointing out olive trees and ancient terraces on the way. Maybe explain
a little about the history of the monastery, but in this case, perhaps
less is more. Leave them to find their own bit in Arkadi, which they
will. Have a refreshment stop in the café overlooking the ravine. Drive
across the mountains via the ancient sites of Monastiraki and Thronos,
towards Amari, stopping for lunch in Gerakari, where more than likely
you will end up buying lots of preserves and very strong local cherry
brandy. Head on to Preveli Monastery, and let everyone sit and reflect
for a while. Note: if visiting a monastery on Crete, make sure you are
appropriately dressed—covered shoulders, and skirts / trousers rather
than shorts. |