Southern Ways

In our March issue it was with great excitement that we reported that the Rethymnon Bugle crew and friends were planning a return visit to the beautiful mountain village of Zaros (aside from the brief review we have given in our March issue, you can also learn more about this lovely place in our April and May 2008 issues of the Bugle). And so it was, on Saint George’s Day, that old friends and new made their way to Zaros, using a variety of routes and vehicles, having several different adventures on the way….

It’s very difficult to know just how to express our appreciation for the hospitality that we received. Many thanks go to Kyria Katerina from Studio Keramos for taking care of us and for providing the legendary breakfast, to those at the Taverna Votamos for a good long lunch (!), the people in the local kafeneions for the early evening aperitifs, and of course to wonderful Vivi and her mother for the marvellous meal at the Vegera Taverna (see www.zaros.info and our advertisement on the back page). We’ll be back!

In our March issue we promised that we would provide you with directions to Zaros in April. Apologies to one and all, somehow we failed to do this. So, for future reference for free spirits who don’t like guidebooks, maps and sign-posts, the directions to Zaros from Rethymnon (using the speedy autobahn route) are as follows: Before getting into your car, try and establish where the sea is. If you can see the sea, you are (probably) facing North - towards Europe. You do not want to go there today. Turn round 180˚ Start driving on the largest road you can find. A helpful landmark that should be on your left-hand side while driving is a rather big hill. If you are driving between November and May, this hill may be even more helpful as a navigation aid, because it will have snow on it. Once you can see the sea again you are possibly getting close. Do not get over-enthusiastic and turn right at this point. The beaches you will find at the end of those twisty roads are just lovely (and some of them might involve yoga), but if you are planning on getting to Zaros today, this diversion is not an option. In fact, if you are on the right road, never turn right (this is not a trick philosophy question). When you can really see the sea, turn left, and after a while, turn left again. More seriously: Take the road South via Timbaki. Just past Mires there is a signed left turn to Zaros, which is about 10km further uphill. You can also take a more scenic route going via the Amari valley and Psiloritis.

Agia Galini

On the way back to Rethymnon we stopped off in Agia Galini for lunch, which we hadn’t done for some time. In the Rethymnon Nomos, Agia Galini is one of the two main ‘resorts’ on the South Coast (the other being Plakias). In some of the English guidebooks, Agia Galini gets a bit of a negative press, and it’s hard to see why. As Christopher Somerville points in the AA Guide ‘Explorer Crete’ (which we rate as one of the better guidebooks to the island) Agia Galini is just fine if you take it for what it is—a thriving holiday village. It is set in a lovely location, it has plenty of facilities, is close to some really good beaches, offers boat trips to some of the more scenic spots on the island, has several good restaurants, and, especially at this time of year, has a laid-back and welcoming atmosphere…. What more could you want? It’s a great place to escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, and makes a good base from which to explore the South Coast. Nearby sites and attractions include the archaeological remains at Festos, (which for authenticity is a far better example of a Minoan palace than Knossos), Agia Triada, and the Roman settlement at Gortys. Close by you will also the caves at Matala, some interesting monasteries and scenic villages such as Vori with its Folklore Museum. It is also within easy striking distance by car to Spili, with its springs and Lions’ Heads Fountains and the Amari Valley.

We had an excellent lunch at Restaurant Paradiso which is just visible on the right side of the steps in the photo opposite . Thanks to Arlette and Triantafillos, (a Belgian - Greek couple who also own the Caramela Restaurant). The fish soup was absolutely fantastic. We hope to visit you again very soon!

You can find out more about what is on offer in and around Agia Galini on the www.agia-galini.com website.