Volume 1, Issue 11, November 2007 Journalism as never before  

Contents

Front PageAround TownThis MonthSpotlightWinter FunLifestyleNovember NutsFun & GamesCommunityCommunity TooEnterprising LocalsThe Back Page

Current Issue

Contact UsArchive

 

Spotlight

The Siege at Arkadi Monastery
The Monastery of Arkadi, located on a plateau at an altitude of 500m, 18 km South-East of Rethymnon, has been a symbol of freedom for Cretans for centuries. The monastery gained international fame / notoriety (depending on which way you look at it) during one of the major Cretan uprisings against the Turks which began in 1866. Throughout the 19th Century, Cretans were engaged in continual resistance activity against the Turkish occupation. This activity intensified after mainland Greece gained independence in 1821. In July 1866, after a meeting of the Cretan Assembly in Askifou (Sfakia region), the decision was made that Turkish authority would no longer be recognised in any form and that Crete should be unified with Greece. This bold declaration of independence lit a touch-paper for people of the island, making out and out war inevitable. The revolt rapidly spread to the Rethymnon area, and Arkadi Monastery became the hub for local guerrilla fighters. It also remained a place of sanctuary for local inhabitants fleeing the conflict in the region — many of them being women and children.
At the beginning of November 1866, Mustafa Pasha sent a letter to Abbot Gabriel demanding unconditional surrender. The Abbot refused to comply. A force of 15,000 Turks immediately launched an attack on the monastery—which at that point was harbouring close on 1,000 local inhabitants, of which just 325 were male combatants. Fierce fighting took place, but it was clearly a lost cause. On the 9th November, those remaining in the monastery barricaded themselves into the ammunition storerooms and blew them up, in preference to being taken prisoner by the Turks. This act resulted in hundreds of deaths.
The Cretan Rebellion was unsuccessful — the Turks finally left the island in 1897, and it wasn’t until 1913 that Crete became unified with mainland Greece. However, the events at Arkadi attracted world wide sympathy, prompting writers such as Victor Hugo to make public statements of support.

Arkadi: A Little Bit of History….

Many books have been written about the history of Arkadi (and the most comprehensive of them are on sale in the museum shop), so we won’t compete! Here is just a tiny bit of historical information which will hopefully whet the appetite of those who have yet to visit this beautiful place.
The earliest written evidence dates the monastery to the 14th century, but it is believed that there has been a monastery on the same grounds since the 5th Century AD. Towards the end of the 16th century restoration and expansion work was carried out. The impressive monastery church dates from this period and is dedicated to the Transfiguration of the Saviour and to the Saints Constantine and Helen.  The stables just outside the front gate date from 1610. Within the monastery grounds there is an interesting museum housing the sacred banner of the Arkadi tragedy, post-Byzantine icons, weapons from the revolutionary era, vestments of great artistic and historical importance and personal items belonging to the legendary Abbot Gabriel.

The Monastery Today

Arkadi Monastery, along with many other monasteries in the Rethymnon Nomos, is a working monastery. Pashmina Delafonte (feature editor of the ‘Spotlight’ page) is not from Crete and does not count herself as being a member of the Greek Orthodox Church, so is more than a little wary of writing this next bit…. But here goes: In recent years, monasteries have experienced something of a revival on Crete. Many that had fallen into disrepair are now being restored and re-populated. Currently, there does seem to be a big drive in order to try and promote the relevance of Orthodoxy to modern-day living. Regardless of faith / creed (or lack thereof), this impetus would appear to be having at least some positive benefits — certainly in this region there are now more young monks, actively involved in community projects than there were ten years ago. Pragmatism? Perhaps.
The Monastery has its own vineyard and produces very fine raki (45% proof, for those who are counting). Within the grounds you will also witness the love of horticulture demonstrated by the residents here. There is a great collection of roses – left to ramble in some places, yet still not briar. There are many flowering plants in unusual pots along with sweet herbs, including, of course, Basil.
Our favourite time to visit the monastery is in Spring or Autumn, on a moody cloudy afternoon after the tour buses have gone. But don’t let this put you off. Any time of year is worthwhile. Just one thing worth mentioning for those not in the know: dress appropriately, please (covered shoulders and no shorts).

  Pashmina Delafonte